Copy my trip: Ultimate Switzerland road trip

Lonely Planet’s Aoife Breslin is just back from a week of road-tripping around Switzerland. She shares some of her top tips and insights on exploring the country by campervan.

As a ‘van life’ newbie, I was initially skeptical that it might not live up to the hype, but I couldn’t have been more wrong. The convenience of having a home on wheels provided a level of freedom and flexibility I’ve never experienced while traveling before. This mode of travel allowed me to adapt my itinerary on the fly, whether pulling over at roadside lakes for an impromptu swim or stumbling upon charming little villages that we would have otherwise never known existed. The ability to explore at our own pace and discover hidden gems along the way made the trip truly unforgettable.

Here is a snapshot of what I got up to in Switzerland!

Three images of a camper van in Switzerland. Image 1 is a woman drinking coffee inside. Image 2 is the front of the van with a field behind. Image three is the opened back door with two girls on a bed on top and luggage storage below
Renting a campervan allows freedom of movement you don’t find when you stay in a hotel. Aoife Breslin for Lonely Planet

Where did you stay? And what was the vibe?

Switzerland has a well-known reputation for being expensive, so you’re probably wondering how three 20-something-year-olds could afford a week in this pricey paradise? The answer: rent a campervan. By combining accommodation and transport into one cost, we saved money while enjoying an unforgettable adventure. 

Traveling this way allowed us to experience Switzerland’s stunning beauty at our own pace, from waking up to majestic mountain views and enjoying breakfast by tranquil lakes to taking spontaneous detours through charming villages.

We rented our campervan, the Family Finca, from Roadsurfer in Zurich. It comfortably fits three adults, making it the perfect home for our week-long vacation. Their professional and responsive service was a lifesaver. When we punctured a tire mid-week of the trip, they had us back on the road within an hour, ensuring a stress-free trip.

Switzerland offers an abundance of campsites, but booking in advance is wise, especially during the high season. A standout campsite was Camping Gletscherdorf Grindelwald, where the sunrise over the mountains created unforgettable mornings. Its proximity to the town center and train station made it convenient for daily excursions and dining out. Another favorite of mine was Easybuchen Camping Eichholz in Bern, a well-organized site with excellent facilities like a restaurant, kitchenettes and free train tickets into the city center. Its location along the River Aare provided perfect opportunities for swimming in crystal-clear waters and relaxing on lush green banks.

Three images of a roadtrip in Switerland. Top left is two women with ice cream cones. Bottom left is row homes in Lucerne, Switzerland. Right image is a turquoise lake in the mountains with a hut and swimmers.
The road trip itinerary included stops at Lake Oeschinensee and Lucerne, with plenty of time for a gelato tasting. Aoife Breslin for Lonely Planet

What was your route?

After flying into Zurich, we started our journey with a delicious breakfast at Babu’s Bakery and Coffeehouse before picking up our campervan and heading to Lucerne. Arriving in the historic city center, we explored medieval architecture, exploring iconic landmarks like the Chapel Bridge and the Water Tower.

Our next stop was Interlaken for two nights, where we swam in the clear waters of Lake Thun, indulged in gelato and chocolate at Vittorio Vanini, and fell in love with the quaint town of Brienz. We then spent three nights in Grindelwald, a place that instantly became my favorite when I met a man from my hometown of Donegal working in a local souvenir shop. Grindelwald was truly special – whether it was the breathtaking views from the First Cliff Walk, sipping wine while admiring the mountain scenery or witnessing snow in the summer, every moment was unforgettable.

We wrapped up our adventure with a quick visit to Bern to see the city’s sights and sneak in one last swim in the River Aare.

Two women swimming in turquoise waters surrounded by high mountain peaks with snow on them
Lake Oescheinensee was the most scenic stop on a very scenic trip. Aoife Breslin for Lonely Planet

Most scenic experience of the trip?

A day at Lake Oeschinensee felt like I was stepping into a real-life postcard of alpine perfection. Nestled in the Bernese Alps, this lake is a hidden gem surrounded by towering peaks and forests, which offer breathtaking views at every turn.

We started our adventure with a scenic gondola ride from Kandersteg, a charming town just an hour’s drive from Interlaken. After reaching the top, we did a short hike through the forest, where we were met with even more incredible Swiss landscapes. Upon reaching the lake, nothing could have prepared me for the sight that awaited us: the sun shining down on the snow-capped mountains, which reflected perfectly on the turquoise water of Oeschinensee, felt surreal to me. 

My Irish bones were well-equipped for the cool temperatures of the Swiss lakes, so we spent the day swimming in the crystal clear waters of Lake Oeschinensee. As a traveler who finds joy in nature’s raw beauty, spending the day sunbathing, swimming, and picnicking by the lakeside was nothing short of perfection.

From the gondola station, you will be met with a variety of hiking trails to suit every preference, making it an ideal day trip for families, seasoned hikers or anyone simply looking to immerse themselves in nature. With a regular tram service to and from the gondola station, this destination is easily accessible, ensuring that everyone can enjoy the area’s breathtaking beauty.

Three women standing on an alpine peak holding a Swiss flag
Jungfraujoch involves a gondola, a train ride and incredible views. Aoife Breslin for Lonely Planet

What was your favorite activity?

Seeing snow in the middle of summer is a rare experience – unless you’re visiting Jungfraujoch. Often referred to as “The Top of Europe,” this experience must be ticked off your bucket list when visiting Switzerland. Standing at an altitude of 3454m, Jungfraujoch offers an adventure like no other. The journey begins with a steep gondola ride, followed by a scenic train trip through tunnels carved into the mountains, before your arrival at the snow-covered peaks of Jungfraujoch.

The crisp alpine air, the dazzling brightness of the snow, and the sheer magnitude of the surrounding peaks create a sense of being on top of the world. Beyond the stunning views, Jungfraujoch offers a range of attractions, from the Ice Palace, where intricate ice sculptures are displayed, to the Sphinx Observatory, providing an unparalleled viewpoint.

Top tip: Consider purchasing the Good Morning ticket package, which allows you to arrive between 7 and 8am. Not only is this option more affordable, but it also lets you experience Jungfraujoch before the crowds arrive around 9am.

three images of a woman in Switzerland image on the left she is wearing red athletic wear, middle standing over a beautiful view in blue and the third she is blocking her face from the sun in a yellow jacket with a snowy peak behind her
Activewear was a must on any trip to Switzerland, especially when you’re planning to play outside. Aoife Breslin for Lonely Planet

I lived in activewear while in Switzerland

The country is a hub for outdoor enthusiasts, so it is important to be kitted out in the right gear. As Switzerland has a diverse climate, we were surprised to be met with sunshine and warm temperatures for most of the trip; wearing breathable and comfortable clothing allowed me to still do all the exploring I wanted to. 

Along with your clothing choices, I would recommend a good pair of walking shoes. Whether or not you’re planning to hike, Switzerland’s picturesque cities are best explored on foot.

Top Tip: If you are planning to visit Jungfraujoch, the “Top of Europe,” be sure to bring a coat. Temperatures dropped drastically during our visit. We went from 28 degrees of sunshine at ground level to 5 degrees with snowfall within just an hour.

three images of various views in Switzerland. Top left is a glacier, bottom left is the water tower in Lucerne, Right image is of a picturesque mountain town
Take drive time into account when planning so you can spend plenty of time in all the iconic locations on your list. Aoife Breslin for Lonely Planet

Best tip for someone who wants to plan the same trip?

When planning a road trip through Switzerland, take driving time into account. While you can’t go wrong with your chosen destinations, minimizing driving time can enhance your experience – especially if you aim to be active throughout your trip. I found that keeping each drive to under two hours worked best for maximizing time spent exploring rather than on the road. My longest journey in a single day was a three-hour round trip.

Our route: Zurich, Lucerne, Interlaken, Grindelwald, Bern, and back to Zurich!

8 reasons to visit Banff and Lake Louise this winter

In the heart of the majestic Canadian Rockies, Banff and Lake Louise rightfully take their place among the most exquisitely beautiful places on Earth. This corner of Alberta attracts thousands of scenery seekers year-round, but if you want to avoid the crowds, plan a trip in winter – especially near Christmas.

Banff National Park is home to three world-class ski resorts – Banff Sunshine, Lake Louise Ski Resort, and Mt Norquay. Yet you don’t need to be a winter sports enthusiast to visit the landmark settlements in Canada’s oldest national park at this time of year. From taking in mountain views to exploring the depths of a fascinating cave system, there are plenty of other ways to keep yourself entertained during the snowy season.

Cross your fingers for a good northern lights forecast, pack your warmest layers and head to Banff and Lake Louise to see how much frosty fun you can have. Here are some of the best wintry activities to try.

Wooden stairs and boardwalks are covered with snow; the viewing platform overlooks Banff Gondola Station
The views from the top of Sulphur Mountain are equally impressive whether hike or take the gondola © Shutterstock / Shawn.ccf

1. Hike or glide to the Sulphur Mountain summit

Perhaps the best way to acquaint yourself with the lay of the land is to summit Banff’s Sulphur Mountain (2451m/8041ft). Climb the 5.5km (3.4-mile) alpine switchback trail, which begins at the Upper Hot Springs parking lot and emerges at the summit. Alternatively, you can glide to the top in the Banff Gondola, which takes just eight minutes. As you stroll around the rooftop observation deck, you’ll see six snowy mountain ranges and have sweeping views of the Bow Valley and the town of Banff below. And between mid-November and Christmas, you’ll also find Santa’s workshop in full swing up here.

2. Take an ice walk in Johnston Canyon

A local outfitter will supply you with ice cleats and hiking poles for the moderate trek to the must-see cerulean blue waterfalls in Johnston Canyon. On the 4.8km (3-mile) round-trip journey, you’ll be treated to dramatic views of frozen waterfalls and snow-covered trees inside the towering canyon walls. Johnston Canyon is also a popular place for ice climbing, so you may see climbers making their way up the icefalls as you hike along the icy trails and catwalks. If this inspires you to try ice climbing, you’ll find Johnston Canyon has an excellent range of routes suitable for beginners and experts alike.

People meditate on the edge of Moraine Lake in deep snow during winter at Banff and Lake Louise
Moraine Lake is the perfect place to try forest bathing © Josiah Holwick / properfilms

3. Go forest bathing at Moraine Lake and find inner peace

This is one kind of immersion you won’t need swimwear for. Forest bathing originated in Japan and is known there as shinrin-yoku, which means “taking in the atmosphere of the forest.” Hire a guide from Forest Fix to lead you through a guided meditation and take a hyper-conscious slow walk in the woods, listen to the birds, smell the trees and breathe in the crisp mountain air. Over the past few years, this form of nature therapy has caught on everywhere, and Moraine Lake’s solitude makes it the perfect location to try it out.

4. Explore the geological features of Rat’s Nest Cave

Open year-round, the Rat’s Nest Cave near Canmore has more than 3km (2 miles) of tunnels and plenty of geological features to keep it interesting. Once you reach the Grotto, you’ll be more than 54m (180ft) underground. Your guide from Canmore Cave Tours will give you a lesson in natural history as you delve into this subterranean safari and even worm your way through the “challenge squeeze” if you’re up for it. For a once-in-a-lifetime experience, plan your visit to coincide with one of the special events that take place in the cave’s Grand Gallery, which have previously included Christmas holiday concerts and movie screenings. 

A steaming hot pool overlooking a snowy mountain range at Banff Upper Hot Springs
A soak in Banff Upper Hot Springs will warm you up after a chilly day in the mountains © Adam Hinchliffe / Shutterstock

5. Soothe aching muscles at Banff Upper Hot Springs

After a day of cold adventures, relax in the steamy Banff Upper Hot Springs while watching the sun go down behind snowy peaks. Lying at 1609m (5280ft), Banff National Park’s only hot springs pool is also the highest of the Canadian Rockies’ hot springs and has a sustained water temperature between 37ºC and 40ºC (98ºF and 104ºF). Forget your swimmers? No problem – rent a (fully sanitized) 1930s-inspired heritage bathing suit for $2.25, absolutely worth the price considering you’ll walk away with some of the best photos of your trip.

6. Soar above the mountains on a helicopter tour

One of the most exhilarating ways to appreciate the staggering grandeur of the Canadian Rockies is to fly high above them, getting a close look at the snow-capped peaks and marveling at the dazzling turquoise-hued lakes in the valleys below. Alpine Helicopter Tours will whisk you up in a helicopter, piloted by an expert aviator, for 25 to 5 minutes of glorious sightseeing that’ll have you exclaiming “Heli-yeah!”

A group of people ride in a horse-drawn sleigh on the banks of frozen Lake Louise during a snowfall
Join in the festive fun with seasonal activities including sleigh rides © James_Gabbert / Getty Images

7. Welcome the holiday season with festive celebrations

The Banff and Lake Louise holiday season kicks off with the annual Santa Claus Celebration of Lights in November, when everyone gathers in downtown Banff to welcome Kris Kringle to town. Find fairy-tale activities throughout the town, including browsing locally made artisan gifts at the Christmas Market and celebrating Christmas traditions at the Fairmont Banff Springs “castle.” And don’t miss out on the program of festive performances, with local acts taking to the Cascade Castle Main Stage.

8. Learn about natural remedies on a medicinal walk

Find out about ancient plant-based remedies with an expert from Mahikan Trails on a snowshoe tour through the woods at Cascade Ponds. Your guide will educate you about the healing powers of various Indigenous plants and trees at this day-use area inside Banff National Park, which also has arguably the best views of Mt Rundle. It’s also a good place for spotting wildlife.

Unique experiences through West Texas and Hill Country

A Texas road trip can create memories that last a lifetime. In between Austin and El Paso are hundreds of miles that weave through vast landscapes under that iconic expansive sky. Starting in the “Live Music Capital of the World” this trip will have you wine tasting in the Hill Country, horseback riding on dude ranches and stargazing in the dark skies of West Texas.

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Start your ultimate Texas road trip in capital city of Austin, in the heart of the state. Travel Texas

Austin

Start your ultimate Texas road trip in the heart of the state. Not long ago the capital city was a laid-back college town known for bohemian cowboy music, an easygoing lifestyle, and a spirited counterculture. Now it’s a metropolis, full of tech startups, avant-garde restaurants, and luxury hotels with swanky rooftop cocktail bars.

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Terry Black’s Barbecue in Austin. Harmon Li for Lonely Planet.

While the food scene has diversified, barbecue remains king in Central Texas. Arrive early to Franklin Barbecue and you’ll be rewarded with what might be the best brisket in the state. For another take on traditional Texas barbeque, head to Terry Black’s BBQ for beef ribs. Other restaurants are reimagining the art of barbecue too. Loro infuses its barbecue with Asian smokehouse flavors and KG BBQ mixes in Egyptian spices like coriander, sumac and thyme.

To truly embrace the heart of the city, park the car and explore on foot. South Congress is a pedestrian’s paradise. Settle into the Hotel San Jose – a garden oasis transformed from a 1930s motor court into a chic boutique retreat – before venturing out. South Congress is also the perfect place to find locally owned Old Austin treasures. Step into Allens Boots or Heritage Boot Co. for authentic Western wear, wander through Parts and Labour for locally crafted art, clothes and jewelry, or add a vintage touch to your wardrobe at Stag Provisions for Men with its curated selection of Americana.

When the sun goes down, stop by Guero’s Taco Bar for mole enchiladas and a margarita before heading across the street to Continental Club. The legendary indie rock and blues bar has been at the heart of Austin’s music scene for almost half-a-century. Cap off your night with two-stepping at classic honky-tonks like Donn’s Depot, Broken Spoke or The White Horse.

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Dancing at the Broken Spoke in Austin. Harmon Li for Lonely Planet.

For a natural escape, take a 40-minute journey south of the city to float on the gentle currents of the Guadalupe River. The four- to five-hour float trip meanders through the captivating beauty of the Texas Hill Country.

The drive: Make your way to Fredericksburg heading west on US-290 W. The 80 miles should only take you about an hour and a half.

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Fischer & Wieser’s Das Peach Haus, Fredericksburg. Pierce Ingram / Travel Texas

Fredericksburg

What started out as a small German-influenced town in the heart of the Texas Hill Country is now a wine-lovers destination. With more than 60 wineries, Fredericksburg is the second most popular wine region in the states after Napa Valley. The rolling vineyards along US-290 offer a scenic route that leads directly into the heart of town.

Provided you have a designated driver, you can start wine tasting before even reaching Fredericksburg in the 200-person town of Hye at William Chris Vineyards. As you continue to make your way east to town, stop off at Becker Vineyards, Texas Heritage Vineyard and Innovation Vineyards for a variety of wine styles. For an even more immersive winery experience, stay overnight at cottages on the Messina Hof winery.

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Vereins Kirche historic Pioneer Museum in Fredericksburg. Harmon Li for Lonely Planet

Once in town embrace the German heritage of Fredericksburg. Grab a freshly made German-style Kolsch at the Alstad Brewery, a German-style pancake made from scratch at the Old German Bakery and Restaurant and a schnitzel or two at Der Lindenbaum restaurant. If you’re looking for outdoor adventure to burn off all that potato-based food, climb the enormous pink granite dome at Enchanted Rock State Natural Area or stroll through the 200 acres of wildflowers at Wildseed Farms.

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The Post Office in Luckenbach, Texas. Harmon Li for Lonely Planet

While in the Hill Country don’t miss a detour to Luckenbach, made famous in a song by Waylon Jennings and Willie Nelson. With nothing more than a post office, a bar and one of the oldest dance halls in the state, this tiny town just outside Fredericksburg offers a glimpse of a bygone era of Texas history. The town is known for impromptu jam sessions where musicians play country, blues and folk music together.

The Drive: Head out on US-290 toward Kerrville. You’ll be on this route for a short stretch before making a slight right turn onto TX-16 S. Continue on TX-16 S until you hit Kerrville where you will take TX-173 S. The hour-long drive will lead you through rolling landscapes, winding roads and sprawling Live Oak trees.

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Bandera is a hotbed of cowboy culture. Pierce Ingram / Travel Texas

Bandera

As you approach Bandera, known as the “Cowboy Capital of the World,” the landscape becomes dotted with horse ranches. The town was the last staging area for the great cattle drives of the 1800s and proudly embraces its cowboy heritage. While in town, stroll down Main Street to check out the Western shops, saloons and historic Bandera County Courthouse that line the street. Grab a Chicken Fried Steak at the 100-year-old Old Spanish Trails Restaurant, taste Texas-made liquors at Spirits of Texas and learn about the history of the area at the Frontier Times Museum.

 A stay at the Mayan Dude Ranch is highly recommended to truly embrace the spirt of the Old West. Here you can spend afternoons on horseback and evenings roasting marshmallows around a campfire.

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Outside of Terlingua. Chris Zebo / Travel Texas

The Drive: Queue up your favorite Texas playlist for this next segment. Take TX-16 north to Kerrville where it meets up with I-10. Take the interstate west for three and a half hours. Just past Fort Stockton, switch to US-67 south towards Alpine for 68 miles, then take TX-118 for the last 77 miles to reach Terlingua.

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Starlight Theatre in Terlingua. Chris Zebo / Travel Texas

Terlingua

Terlingua is an historic mining town near the eastern entrance of Big Bend National Park. While the proximity to the park has always been its draw, nowadays visitors are spending as much time in the frontier outpost as they are in the park.

The ghost town consists of a handful of rustic relics of times past including a humble cemetery, the old Chisos Mining Company store and a saloon. At sunset the wide porch of the Terlingua Trading Company turns into the local gathering spot. Here you can grab a beer from the general store and watch the sunset over the far-off Santa Fe de Los Pinos range all while enjoying the easy-going chatter of residents. After the sunset show, swing by the Starlight Theatre for a bite to eat or make your way to the Boathouse to listen to some live music. It’s a perfect spot to unwind before heading back to your room at the Big Bend Holiday Inn.

The Drive: Head north on TX-118 to Alpine. For the best tacos in the Big Bend area, stop at El Gordo’s Grill for a birra taco. It’s the little food truck in the Wright Hardware parking lot near Study Butte. From there continue north to Alpine, then take US-90 West directly to Marfa.

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Hiking to Santa Elena Canyon in Big Bend National Park. Harmon Li for Lonely Planet.

Big Bend National Park

The beauty of Big Bend National Park lies in its versatility. You can make your adventures as vigorous or as relaxed as you like. If you want an all-out multiple-day adventure, hike the Outer Mountain Loop, a 30-mile circuit that makes its way up, down and around the Chisos Mountains and the surrounding Chihuahuan Desert. 

If you’d rather take a nice leisurely drive with amazing views, head for the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive. The thirty-mile drive weaves through the park with easily accessible pull-offs that show off the beauty of the land. Highlights of the route include the Sotol Vista Overlook where you can see the expansive western half of the park, the Mule Ears Viewpoint where you can see the famous Mule Ears Peak and the Santa Elena Canyon which is arguably the most beautiful spot in the entire park.

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Kayakers in Big Bend National Park. Getty Images

If you would rather be on the water, book a canoe trip down the Rio Grande. Local tour operators like Wild Adventure Outfitters or Far Flung Outdoor Center offer everything from half-day paddling excursion to immersive multi-day journeys.

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Marfa Public Radio in Marfa. Harmon Li for Lonely Planet

Marfa

Located in the high desert of the Trans-Pecos in far West Texas, Marfa has gained a reputation as one of America’s coolest art towns. The town is known in equal parts for its modern art scene and remote desert landscape. Possibly no other place in town encapsulates this more than Ballroom Marfa – a contemporary cultural arts space that promotes the visual, performing and musical arts while fostering community engagement.

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Giant movie cutouts in Marfa. Harmon Li for Lonely Planet

Plan on dinner at Jett’s Grill for a taste of nostalgic Old Marfa. Named after James Dean’s character in Giant, the restaurant is located in the historic Hotel Paisano first made famous in the 1950s when  Dean, Elizabeth Taylor and Rock Hudson stayed there during filming of the classic Western saga.

Marfa’s local newspaper doubles as a cafe reflecting the town’s quirky nature. The Sentinel serves as a gathering place for coffee and cocktails complete with Marfa’s signature desert-minimalist interior design. You cannot leave town without grabbing a homemade burrito from Marfa Burrito. 

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El Cosmico. Harmon Li for Lonely Planet

Book an evening at El Cosmico if you want to live out your childhood dream of sleeping in a teepee. If you are more into mid century modern motels complete with vintage typewriters to peck out your travel memoir, book a room at Thunderbird Marfa.

The Drive: Fort Davis is a short 20-minute jaunt north of Marfa on TX-17.

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The McDonald Observatory. Kris Davidson for Lonely Planet

Fort Davis

The Big Bend region holds a distinction for having some of the darkest skies in the continental United States. The wide-open spaces and pristine sky attracts would-be stargazers from all over the world to this slice of Texas to get a glimpse of the Milky Way. The McDonald Observatory atop Mount Locke and Mount Fowlkes is the ideal location for stargazers. The observatory plays host to weekly two-hour star parties where visitors can use high-powered telescopes to glimpse the stars, plants and constellations that make up our night sky.

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Swimmers at Balmorhea State Park. Harmon Li for Lonely Planet

To make your own star party, go camping at Davis Mountains State Park, spread out a cozy blanket and gaze upwards. If you can, plan your trip around a moonless night when the stars shine at their brightest.

The Drive: The final leg of your road trip will take about three hours. From Fort Davis take TX-17 north until it hits I-10. If you want to jump into a natural pool of refreshing spring-fed water along the way, take a detour to Balmorhea State Park near the intersection of I-10 and TX-17. After that take I-10 west for 190 until you hit El Paso.

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Socorro Mission, built in 1840, near El Paso. Shutterstock / Bill Chizek

El Paso

El Paso is a lively border city that combines the rugged natural beauty of the Chihuahuan Desert with the colorful charms of the American Southwest and sprinkles in cultural traits of Mexico. Whether you want to explore the 100 miles of trails at the Franklin Mountains, shop for handmade, custom cowboy boots at Rocketbuster Boots or explore the three historic churches that make up the El Paso Mission Trail, Texas’ westernmost city has something for everyone.

Hueco Tanks State Park is a rock climber’s dream. The volcanic rock peppered with hand gripping hollows or ‘huecos’ at the park makes it the No. 1 bouldering destination in America. Non-climbers can spend a day at the park learning the history behind the ancient rock art left behind by the various people who used the rock formations as a place of shelter over the centuries.

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Climbing over boulders at Hueco Tanks State Park. milehightraveler / Getty Images

Refuel after a day spent outdoors with a hearty T-bone steak at Cattleman’s Steakhouse or an overflowing plate of enchiladas at L&J Cafe. End the evening at the Hotel Paso del Norte’s Dome Bar. For more than 100 years, the who’s-who of El Paso have sipped cocktails under the 25-foot Tiffany stained-glass dome. The spot is an ideal location to toast your travel companions to another epic trip in the books.

The 11 best places to visit in Guatemala

The epicenter of Mayan culture in Central America, Guatemala is renowned for its dramatic volcanoes, black-sand beaches, remarkable biodiversity, historic Spanish cities, thriving Mayan communities and the stunning ruins of Tikal – perhaps the most spectacular of the ruined Mayan cities scattered around the jungles of Central America.

There’s loads to see here, and it’s worth taking your time to roam from the coastal beaches to the temperate highlands, and from Mayan ruins to wildlife-filled national parks. The country’s abundant natural attractions are topped off by the urban charm of Antigua, the country’s former Spanish-era capital, where visitors can find some of the best food in Central America.

Everything in Guatemala feels vibrantly alive, from the Mayan culture of Chichicastenango to the sublime serenity of Lake Atitlán with its guardian ring of volcanoes. One trip will likely have you hooked for life, so here are the best places to start your adventure in Guatemala, the Land of Eternal Spring.

1. Antigua

Best for architecture, history and volcanoes

Just a 45-minute drive from Guatemala’s main international airport, Antigua is most travelers’ first and last stop in Guatemala, and it rarely disappoints. A sprawl of cobblestone streets, historic basilicas and colorful homes, the city is surrounded by towering volcanoes, the most impressive of which is El Fuego (“the fire”), whose steep slopes are regularly marked by low-level eruptions.

Antigua is a place to explore in depth, posing for selfies under the iconic Arco de Santa Catarina, shopping for Mayan handicrafts, taking stunning photos of volcano-backed street scenes and colonial architecture, studying Spanish at local language schools, and refueling in the city’s many excellent cafes, restaurants and bars.

Some of Guatemala’s best restaurants can be found in Antigua, which has excellent global cuisine and traditional and contemporary Guatemalan fare. Eat delicious, budget-friendly street food at the night market or splurge on somewhere elegant and atmospheric such as Meson Panza Verde, a cozy boutique hotel where creative fusion dishes are made with local ingredients.

Detour: For days out of town, wake up early to hike to the nearby Pacaya and Acatenango volcanoes, or wake up late and enjoy a laid-back brunch made with homegrown ingredients at the charming Caoba Farms. There’s plenty here to fill many days of exploring!

Hiker looking out over the summits of volcanoes at Lake Atitlan
Volcano hikes around Lago de Atitlán offer views of a landscape that seems like it’s from another world. Simon Dannhaue/Shutterstock

2. Lago de Atitlán

Best for chilling out amidst volcanic scenery

Tucked away deep in the western highlands and framed by three towering volcanoes, Lago de Atitlán is considered by some to be the most spectacular lake in the world. The waters of this deep and mysterious crater lake turn turquoise to deep green to dark blue as the light changes with the time of day and season. Because of its unique beauty, travelers have been known to get stuck here for weeks, months or even years.

Several small villages with distinctively different moods dot the lakeshore. Party people head to San Pedro La Laguna, while those interested in meditation and yoga love quieter San Marcos La Laguna. Spanish classes are widely available, but the main order of the day is simply chilling by the lakeside and marveling at the wonders of nature.

Planning Tip: For those who simply can’t sit still, more energetic activities include paragliding, stand-up paddleboarding, kayaking trips and hikes to the top of the dormant Volcán San Pedro. The lake also has some of Guatemala’s best swimming beaches.

Mayan traders gather on the steps of Iglesia de Santo Tomás in Chichicastenango
Mayan traders gather on the steps of Iglesia de Santo Tomás in Chichicastenango. nobito/Shutterstock

3. Chichicastenango

Best for experiencing Mayan culture

Chichicastenango, aka “Chichi,” not only hosts the most impressive Maya market in the country, but it also has deep cultural significance to the Maya people. The town served as the main trading center for the Quiché region before the conquistadors arrived, and the tradition of people coming from hill villages to trade continues to this day.

Nestled amidst lush green mountains in the Guatemalan highlands, this sprawling market town fills with market traders every Sunday and Thursday, as visitors surge in on day trips from Lago de Atitlán. You’ll find a labyrinth of stalls full of local products, carved masks and gorgeous textiles, including the traditional huipil blouses that Indigenous women weave and wear.

Every region has a different style of huipil, and the intricate patterns of natural designs and abstract symbols can take months or even a year to weave. Other goods sold in this atmospheric market include wood carvings, leather goods, pottery and jade, silver and gold jewelry.

Planning Tip: While you’re in Chichicastenango, drop into the small archeological museum and the museum of ceremonial Mayan masks and spend some time people-watching on the incense-cloaked steps of Iglesia de Santo Tomás.

Tourist looking at old mayan ruins from high lookout (Temple IV and El Mundo Perdido), Tikal, Guatemala
Jungle-tangled Tikal is one of Central America’s most evocative ancient sites. Matteo Colombo/Getty Images

4. El Petén and Tikal

Best for Mayan ruins in the rainforest

The Guatemalan department (province) of El Petén is one of the most biodiverse regions in Central America, and this is also the setting for the towering Mayan temples of Tikal. The ruins of this ancient city, which rose to the height of its power in the 7th century, are buried deep in the jungle, visited by howler monkeys, coatis, agoutis and tropical birds and cloaked in lush vegetation. It’s worth spending a few days here exploring the region around beautiful, deep-green Lago Petén Itzá.

Several small communities line the water’s edge, but the island town of Flores is where most people stay while visiting Tikal, with a good selection of hostels and hotels, fun-filled nightlife and good amenities. However, the often-overlooked village of El Remate is another excellent option for those looking for a more tranquil vibe.

El Remate is tiny, but it has a handful of hostels, and it’s on a much better stretch of the lakeshore for swimming. As a bonus, the village is located closer to Tikal, meaning a quicker journey to the ruins. Check out the long-established Mon Ami hostel and restaurant for lakeside accommodations and lake-fish lunches, and Las Orquideas for delicious Italian food.

Detour: Quieter than Tikal, but equally worth visiting, are the ruins of Yahxá, a smaller ceremonial site located between two lakes, which is famed for its epic sunsets. For the more adventurous, five-day jungle treks to El Mirador, the largest Mayan site in Central America, can be arranged through local outfitter Carmelita Tours.

5. Río Dulce and Livingston

Best for river adventures

The largest lake in Guatemala, Lago Izabal is known for its geothermally heated waterfalls and fringing mangroves teeming with wildlife. The lake empties into the Río Dulce, which runs directly to the town of Lívingston, a busy hub for Garifuna people located on the Caribbean coast. Many travelers stop here en route to the coast and hire a boat to take them down the river.

Río Dulce is hot, humid and lush, and the vibe is surprisingly international, thanks to a string of marinas, restaurants and bars along the river that cater to visiting sailors. Stay at the excellent Tortugal, a boutique guesthouse located on a marina, and let the water lull you to sleep, or take a pickup to stay at one of the more remote riverside hostels in the jungle – Hotelito Perdido is a top choice.

Visitors swimming in turquoise-coloured waters at Semuc Champey
Semuc Champey is one of Central America’s most beautiful swimming holes. Paul Kennedy/Getty Images

6. Semuc Champey and Lanquín

Best for splashing in jungle pools

With its serene turquoise pools and natural limestone bridge, the national park of Semuc Champey is one of the most beautiful places in Central America. It’s a bit of a challenge to get there, but the trip is well worth the effort to swim and relax surrounded by tranquil natural beauty.

The pools are quite remote, and many visitors choose to stay in Lanquín, a village about a 45-minute drive from Semuc Champey with a handful of excellent hostels. Check out Zephyr Lodge, a popular party hostel with an infinity pool and unrivaled views of the surrounding mountains. El Retiro Lodge is more relaxed and just as pretty, with simple huts located right beside the river. Day trips to the pools are arranged by both hostels.

Planning Tip: If you’re looking to stay as close to the pools as possible, Greengo’s Hotel has A-frame cabins just a 10-minute walk from the entrance to the park.

7. Nebaj and the Ixil Triangle

Best for uncrowded hiking trails

The isolated township of Nebaj is located in the remote highlands of the Cuchumatanes Mountains, a region referred to as the Ixil Triangle. It’s an excellent hub for hiking off the tourist trail. Visitors can trek between the peaks of the tallest mountain chain in Central America, traversing verdant slopes and valleys that alternate between subtropical forests and sweeping shrublands.

It’s possible to hike from the Ixil triangle to Todos Santos, a small town famous for its Day of the Dead celebrations every November. Starting from Nebaj, hikes are run once or twice a month by the excellent Quetzaltrekkers, based out of Quetzaltenango

Turtles scuttling towards the surf on a beach in Guatemala, with waves breaking behind.
Black sand, turtles, surfing and sunsets – there are lots of reasons to come to Monterrico and El Paredon. noga f/Shutterstock

8. Monterrico and El Paredon

Best for black sands and surfing

Monterrico is a popular beachside getaway for Guatemalans, and it offers a fine expanse of black sand where you can relax, swim and watch the most incredible sunsets. By day, take a tour through the protected mangrove forest to see tropical birds and other wildlife or visit the Tortugario Monterrico sanctuary in the evening to help release baby turtles from September to January.

A two-hour drive away, El Paredon is the smaller of the two beaches, but it’s becoming increasingly popular thanks to its reliable surf breaks and the emergence of some great places to stay, including hippy-chic Swell. Head to this chilled-out beach for a backpacker vibe, easy-going Spanish classes, surfing lessons and socializing at the Driftwood Surfer hostel, which always has something going on every night of the week.

9. Laguna Lachuá

Best for escaping the tourist trail

Located in the middle of Parque Nacional Laguna Lachuá, in the coffee- and cardamom-growing region of Alta Verapaz, this idyllic lagoon is quickly gaining traction as one of the country’s best off-the-beaten-track destinations. Reached by a humid 5km (3-mile) hike, this perfectly round, turquoise lake is flanked by interpretive trails, and it’s a lovely place to swim.

Visitors can only get to the lagoon after hiking through dense areas of tropical rainforest, home to howler monkeys, tarantulas, colorful birds and tropical flowers. After working up a sweat on the way here, the deep, cool lagoon is the perfect place to dive in, cool off and relax.

Planning Tip: The park doesn’t have any restaurants, so you’ll need to bring your own water and food. The easiest way to get here is on a tour from Cobán, about 147km (91 miles) south of Laguna Lachuá in the central highlands.

A man looks out over rolling green hills and low clouds in the Guatemalan highlands.
Hikes through Guatemala’s green highlands will lift you up above dramatic landscapes. Rolando Estrada/Getty Images

10. Quetzaltenango

Best for relaxing in the highlands

Quetzaltenango, or Xela (pronounced shay-la) as almost everyone calls it, is a place to linger. A big city with a small-town vibe, Quetzaltenango has pretty cobblestone streets, crumbling colonial buildings and a central park bookended by an ornate cathedral. Many visitors come here to study Spanish, volunteer, or take some serious hikes in the western highlands.

With the high elevation, expect pleasantly cool evenings that are perfect for sitting out in candle-lit bars and restaurants. Spanish students mingle with NGO volunteers, and chatty local residents are happy to help out with verb conjugations. Check out Mandarina on Calle 13-21 for the best lattes and salads in town. Don’t leave without trying shecas, a local sweet bread stuffed with either beans, cheese or jam, typically consumed with afternoon coffee.

Detours: Sights worth visiting outside the city include the hot springs tucked into the forest at Fuentes Georginas, Laguna Chicabal – a sacred lake that is often shrouded in mist, reached via a five-hour tramp up a volcano – and the twin volcanoes of Volcáns Santa Maria and Volcán Santiaguito, which can both be visited on a rewarding day hike. Huehuetanango, 90km (56 miles) north of Quetzaltenango, is another good base for hikes. 

11. Guatemala City 

Best for neighborhood exploring

Guatemala City is Central America’s largest metropolis, and how you experience the city will depend on where you spend your time. For those looking for a soft place to land, Zone 10 is the upscale neighborhood of the city, with wide, tree-lined boulevards full of high-end restaurants, hotels and trendy shops. This is also where you’ll find Museo Ixchel, an excellent museum focused on Mayan textiles and weaving.

For a more historic vibe, head to Zone 1, home to the Parque Central and the Palacio Nacional de la Cultura, once the residence of dictator General Jorge Ubico. The park is popular for street food and occasional live music, or just as a place to sit for a while and watch the city going about its business.

Heading south from Zone 1 is Paseo de la Sexta, a pedestrian-only area studded with cafes, restaurants and shops. Here, you’ll find the famous Hotel Pan American, popular with revolutionaries, artists and writers since its construction more than 70 years ago. Across the street from the hotel is the equally famous Portalito, the bar reputedly frequented by Che Guevera whenever he visited Guatemala.

Detour: Zone 4 has been transformed from a once-dicey neighborhood full of abandoned factories into a trendy area with a post-industrial vibe. Once dilapidated streets are now alive with colorful street art, art galleries, digital workspaces, craft breweries and cafes serving up local beans that have until recently been reserved for export. Coffee District is a good place to start, with city views and an easygoing vibe.