I asked a Melbourne stylist for her biggest fashion icks

“An ick isn’t a trend, it’s a personal preference.”

A few years ago when I was cleaning out my wardrobe, I added an old pair of drop-crotch pants to my donate pile. I couldn’t understand why I’d bought them in the first place, but they gave me flashbacks to high school and 2010 fashion memories I’d rather forget. To my dismay, my partner fished them out and tried them on. They looked completely different on him than they did on me and he ended up wearing them everywhere.

It’s the beauty of circular fashion – one man’s trash can be another man’s treasure. Or, perhaps more fittingly, one person’s biggest fashion ick, can inevitably end up being someone else’s favourite piece in their wardrobe.


For more fashion news, shoots, articles and features, head to our Fashion section.


Some of my favourite pieces in my wardrobe are preloved pieces that someone, somewhere, has decided to part with – presumably because they no longer liked the item. Though someone else might have developed a dislike for a certain piece of clothing, it doesn’t mean it’s no longer worthy.

Fashion is deeply personal and there’s no hard and fast rule for what does or doesn’t work. Sometimes, there’s just no logic to it, you either love something, or you don’t. Maybe it’s due to a bad association or memory – or maybe it’s just an ick you can’t rationalise.

Curious to know more about fashion icks, I turned to stylist and founder of the Australian Style Institute, Lauren Di Bartolo. Below, Lauren talks about the good and bad in sharing your fashion icks with others, as well as her top three (personal) fashion icks of all time.

What are your thoughts on fashion ‘icks’ given style is so personal?

Fashion icks are like any other ick, they’re personal and we don’t always have a clear or logical reason for why they exist, only that they hit us pretty instantly. Most icks come from memories, whether that’s old childhood memories or more recent experiences with a partner or trend. As a stylist, I’m mindful that sharing my icks adds little value to my clients, why take the sparkle off something they like?!

Something to note is that sharing an ick usually goes one of two ways: it brings us closer to someone who shares it, but it can seem completely irrational or even judgemental to someone who doesn’t. Because they’re personal, icks can seem irrational to other people. The problem with sharing our repulsion is that we can take the shine of the items that friends like, even passing the ick on.

What mistakes do you see people making when exploring their personal style?

Single season and short-term thinking. Fashion waste is a serious issue Australian consumers are being called to address, so thinking about longer-term wear is important. Even if it’s a trend that will pass, a great purchase can usually be restyled to be updated.

And buying what they already have a version of. Human behaviour drives our purchases, so it’s important to take stock of what’s already in our wardrobe. Everyone has icks, but an ick isn’t a trend, it’s a personal preference that shouldn’t make us feel we need to ditch items in our wardrobe.

What are your top three biggest fashion icks and why? 

It’s become an increasingly unpopular opinion the longer they’ve maintained public appeal but Crocs aren’t my thing. It doesn’t matter how they’re decorated or who the collaboration is with, they’re something about them that feels like cosplay. I’m not sure whether I had shoes like them as a kid, but like most icks, my dislike for them is totally irrational and very real.

There’s also a colour of maroon that I can’t wear when it’s wool. It was my school jumper and when I see the colour I smell the dampness of getting caught in the rain on the walk home or running for the bus.

And my third is influence creating waste. If we want to throw away items every time we’re introduced to a new ick, we’re only contributing to the disposable approach we’ve had to fashion for too long. We need to stop making icks a trend that influences our wardrobe decisions.

Stop listening to people who are telling you what’s ‘in’ and ‘out’ more frequently than the seasons. Often people find themselves in a shopping spiral because the speed of trends is faster than it’s ever been. We saw this happen last summer with sneakers. In the space of the month, everyone went from having to have Sambas to being told there was something better now trending.

I recently asked a group of Australian Style Institute students and stylists what their most irrational icks are and they certainly agreed with my view on Crocs. Another ick we explored was the divisive topic of skinny jeans, with many stylists finding the ultra-tight fit to be a no for them.

Icks from childhood were also discussed, with many stylists referring back to pieces linked to items they would see their parents wearing, like matching tracksuits and Mary Janes, causing irrational icks for them in adult life.

To learn more about the Australian Style Institute, head here.

Chrome butterflies, sea slugs and alien eggs: Meet Pili, Melbourne’s new accessories label

You only have to see one piece from Melbourne-based label Pili to instantly recognise it anywhere. Chrome belts and tentacled butterfly tops, spiked shoe harnesses inspired by sea slugs and earrings that look like alien eggs are just some of the creations capturing the attention of Australia’s emerging fashion hubs.

What started as a creative project to keep inspired during Covid has since grown into an accessories label that pushes the limits of design. Nearly four years after its conception, Pili has stayed true to its original concept inspired by biomimicry – a practice that learns from and mimics strategies found in nature to solve human design challenges.


For more fashion news, shoots, articles and features, head to our Fashion section.


Curious to learn more, we spoke with brand founder and designer Yang about the breakthroughs and challenges of starting your own label and what keeps the local fashion scene so exciting.

Tell me a bit about how you got started in fashion.

My studies were in media and film, where I worked in fashion photography and video editing. My journey into fashion has been more about creative exploration and merging different forms of visual art.

What was the process like starting your label, were there many challenges along the way?

The label began during the Covid pandemic, a time when I wanted to pursue something new. Creating something from scratch is incredibly challenging; every step of the process presents its own hurdles. The journey involved learning, experimenting and overcoming numerous obstacles.

The project began with the idea of rethinking the coexistence of multiple species and imagining a future where our designs are inspired by biomimicry. I was captivated by the way organisms evolve different shapes and structures to adapt to their environment – whether to evade predators, warn off threats or attract mates.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by PILI (@pili__official)

Currently, the brand continues to explore this concept, presenting designs that reflect how ‘neo-humans’ might evolve to mimic other species in response to changing environments. Our aim is to bridge the gap between human society and nature, envisioning how future interactions could reshape our relationship with the natural world.

While staying true to our core idea of adapting and connecting with nature, we’re also branching out into different types of products. We aim to keep our creativity fluid and open, allowing us to explore various design possibilities beyond our initial vision. 

How would you describe your label to someone who’s never seen it before?

The name Pili 霹雳 (pī lì) means thunder and lighting – a powerful connection between the sky and earth that symbolises creation and inspiration. We seek to ignite fresh ideas and push beyond conventional boundaries in our designs. While we remain rooted in our core concept of adaptation and connection with nature, we’re also exploring a wide range of design possibilities, staying fluid and open in our creativity. Just as lightning sparks new life, we seek to ignite fresh ideas and push beyond conventional boundaries in our designs.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by PILI (@pili__official)

What are you most proud of in your work on your label?

I’m most proud of our first product [the shoe harness]. It was a significant challenge to bring it to life, but it stands as a testament to our commitment and courage.

What do you wish you knew when you started?

I wish I had known it would be even harder than I imagined, haha. I need to keep pushing and stay determined!

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by PILI (@pili__official)

Who is exciting you the most in Australian fashion right now?

There are so many fascinating brands, it’s hard to pick just one as the most exciting. I really like Strateas Carlucci, Kourh, Toile Studios, Speed, Verner, and Amy Lawrance, among others. I also have a strong appreciation for the work of various independent designers. The industry is vibrant and full of innovative talent.

What about the local fashion industry needs to change?

I don’t have extensive knowledge about the industry or what specifically defines fashion. However, I find many student projects and small designer brands to be incredibly creative and vibrant. It would be great to see more of these innovative pieces gain exposure in mainstream media.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by PILI (@pili__official)

Who are your dream collaborators?

There are so many potential collaborators I’d love to work with! I’m excited to explore partnerships with different artists and brands to create something truly unique and innovative.

How can we buy one of your pieces?

You can purchase our pieces directly from our website, or find them at Distal Phalanx and Ac0cene stores.  

Head here to explore the Pili range.

A growing list of made-to-order fashion labels from around Australia

Today, more than a whopping 100 billion garments are made each year, meanwhile, a truck full of clothes is sent to landfill every single second. Ouch. To make things worse, 30 per cent of clothes sold each ‘season’ (a word that’s lost all meaning in fashion) are thrown out – before they’re even sold.

For big, exploitative and extractive brands, it’s often cheaper to make more clothes than will ever be sold, than to lose profits if something people want sells out too fast. In landfill, even biodegradable materials like cotton don’t biodegrade – the anaerobic (without air) conditions don’t allow for it.


Keep up to date with ethical designers over at our Fashion section. 


So it doesn’t matter if brands are using organic cotton, or recycled synthetics, or whatever other materials fill their ‘green’ collections, it’s all the same in landfill. A key solution to the many problems of unsustainable fashion? Made-to-order clothes.

If clothes are only made when there’s already a loving home waiting for them – and they’ll be loved and cared for over the years to come, meaning we can all buy less – we’d reduce fashion’s negative impact.

At the same time, we’ll get to foster our own personal style better than if we kept following fast fashion’s TikTok driven micro-trends. As big lovers of Australian fashion, we’ve rounded up a (growing) selection of labels making clothes to order with ethics and sustainability in mind.

Perple

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Perple (@perplewomen)

Melbourne-based made-to-order womenswear label Perple creates timeless designs with androgynous shapes and silhouettes. Each piece is created from mostly deadstock material and is pattern-made, cut and sewn in-house to reduce waste.

perplemelbourne.com

HB Archive

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by HB Archive (@hb.archive)

HB Archive offers considered garments and accessories, made from natural fibres and designed to be part of a capsule wardrobe. Each piece is thoughtfully made-to-order here in Melbourne, with styles limited to avoid over-consumption.

hbarchive.com.au

Katharina Lou

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by KATHARINALAND (@katharinalouu)

With a focus on slow fashion, Katharina Lou is a vibrant made-to-order womenswear label designed for those who love to dress up. Pieces are handmade by Katharina, using colourful fabrics from a female-owned block-printing studio in Bangalore, India.

katharinalou.com

Pocket Money

Pocket Money is an experimental Naarm label creating pieces from secondhand and deadstock materials. The label offers made-to-order pieces and access to one-off creations. Each piece is designed with longevity in mind.

pocketm0ney.com

Studio Marlene

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by STUDIO MARLENE (@studio.marlene)

Studio Marlene began as Emily Mae Poole’s personal ode to her mother’s closet. Built around one timeless piece, The Marlene Shirt, each Studio Marlene garment is designed with functionality and permanence in mind. The label is entirely seasonless, so you can order from its selection of considered staples year-round.

studiomarlene.com

Anna Cordell

Anna Cordell’s garments are designed for lovers of style and music. Anna’s classically hand-sewn pieces are inspired by the rock and roll generation of the ’60s and ’70s, who valued innovation in fashion while respecting the traditions of high-end tailoring. Anna Cordell adopts this approach through her own pieces, which are made-to-order in her Northcote studio.

annacordellclothing.com

Bodicia B

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by bodicia b (@bodiciab)

Bodicia B is an Eora-based label crafting handmade dresses, tops and skirts. The label’s use of deadstock fabric means each piece is unique; with collections released in thoughtful, small batches. Garments change with the recycled and deadstock fabrics available, so keep an eye on the brand’s Instagram for new drops.

@bodiciab

Sexiaz

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by @sexiazlingerie

Founded in 2005, Sexiaz is a Naarm-based lingerie label that embraces queerness and looks to empower all forms of sexuality. Originally designed for sex workers, the Sexiaz collection is built on inclusivity and positivity. With orders placed through the brand’s Instagram, each piece is customisable in its cut, size, colour and style.

@sexiazlingerie

Citizen Wolf

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Citizen Wolf® (@citizen_wolf)

A brand that exists to ‘re-engineer the fashion industry’, Citizen Wolf is zero-waste, made to order, and custom fit – using its unique Magic Fit algorithm. Making the most perfectly cut tees (and turtlenecks, and sweats) under the sun, everything is made in-house in Marrickville, Sydney on Gadigal land – certified by Ethical Clothing Australia and B Corp. Sustainable materials like hemp, GOTS-certified organic cotton and tencel – as well as tees made from recycled tees – round off a pretty environmentally perfect brand.

citizenwolf.com

Lucinda Babi

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Lucinda Babi (@lucindababi)

Through her label Lucinda Babi, Lucinda Houghton is creating truly sustainable fashion that looks nothing like sustainable fashion at all. The Melbourne-based designer works with fabric scraps and other miscellaneous finds alongside locally sourced fabrics, creating pieces that are a truly original (and exciting) interpretation of what exists in the broader trend cycle. Everything is made to order, by hand, in her Collingwood studio with minimal fabric waste as a result.

lucindababi.com

E Nolan

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by E NOLAN (@enolanmelbourne)

Been hunting for the most perfect suit you can find? Naarm’s E Nolan crafts made-to-measure, tailored garments for women and the queer community. Designer Emily Nolan has an eye for timeless, elegant shapes and it shows. With 600 United Kingdom and Japanese-made fabrics to choose from, it’s easy to choose something sustainable and unique to you. A suit from E Nolan is definitely an investment and can become a heirloom. That’s slow, considered fashion – as it should be.

enolan.com.au

Par Moi

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Par Moi (@par___moi)

Made to order with love by Ashiya Omundsen in Narrm, everything at Par Moi is made from deadstock fabrics. Refusing to overproduce while saving fabrics from landfill? We love that. Sweaters, upcycled denim vests and skirts, gorgeous print dresses and playful shirts are all made just for you here.

par-moi.com

Kalaurie

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Kalaurie (@_kalaurie_)

Using deadstock and surplus materials much of the time, Kalaurie makes beautiful dresses, blouses, jackets and other staples ethically in Narrm. When deadstock materials aren’t available, Kalaurie works to make use of sustainable options like organic cotton, linen, tencel and cupro (made from the fuzz surrounding cotton seeds). The dark, dreamy aesthetic of this brand is unmatched.

kalaurie.com.au

Toilé Studios

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by TOILÈ STUDIOS (@toile__studios)

Like a great lip-and-cheek colour or a glossy formula you can use on the eyes, there’s something so pleasing about a hardworking, multi-functional garment. Melbourne label Toilé Studios, founded by designer Nadya Kusumo, was built on the concept of ‘innovative wardrobe solutions’. Nadya’s made-to-order garments are equipped with detachable, reversible and transformable features, all crafted from recyclable materials.

toilestudios.com

Oats the Label

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by OATS (@oatsthelabel)

Oats the Label is a Naarm-based brand that crafts romantic and versatile womenswear. Working from their local studio, designer Bridie Davey and her mother have attracted the attention of a slew of Melbourne creatives. The mother-daughter duo has designed a beautiful selection of clothing, including the beloved Pop Top collection which is an FJ favourite thanks to its bold, feminine aesthetic.

@oatsthelabel

Dead Pretty

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by DEAD PRETTY® (@deadprettyau)

Another Sydney-based label, Dead Pretty makes softly sparkling fits you can style for a disco or your cute gal’s brunch. Using Japanese-made tencel-blend material, Dead Pretty’s bandeau, halter and cowl-neck tops, hot pants, dresses, ruched and mini skirts are locally and fairly made to order. Tencel has thermo-regulating and moisture-wicking properties, making it great to wear all year round.

deadpretty.com.au

Krystal Deans

You’d have to be living under a proverbial rock if you haven’t seen Krystal Deans’ contrast stitch basics flooding your IG feed at one point or another. With consciousness at the centre of the brand’s ethos, the Wadawurrung-based label is on a mission to create elevated yet classic staples that capture the essence of the modern woman. While minimal in design, each style is created with a level of thought and consideration to stand the test of time.

krystaldeans.com

For more on made-to-order fashion, try this.