Visiting Petra? Here’s how to do it responsibly

Painstakingly hand carved from the rose-colored sandstone cliffs, the magical timeworn city of Petra is Jordan’s most-loved attraction and a bucket-list checkbox for travelers the world over.

However, in a sad touch of irony, this fragile site, once a tightly held Bedouin secret whose whereabouts were lost to Western knowledge for well over 1000 years, has suffered from overtourism. Nearly loved to death, Petra is regularly included on the World Monument Fund’s list of the most endangered sites in the world. The biggest threat is increased tourism, as annual visitor numbers reached over 1 million in 2019 and have climbed to around 900,000 per year in the post-pandemic period.

Preserving Petra must be at the forefront of travelers’ minds so we don’t let it crumble away below our feet and before our eyes. Here’s how to visit the site responsibly.

Visit off season

Petra has two high seasons – March and April and September and October – when the site can draw around 4000 people a day. If you want that seemingly impossible moment of encountering the Treasury without the crowds or a silent walk through the Siq, plan your trip for winter, from December to February. You’ll have to bundle up, but you could be uncovering Petra’s secrets on your own. If your vacation dates are already set in stone, beat the crowds by arriving early in the morning; the site is open from 6:30am year round. Visiting during a less-busy period is beneficial for both the management of the site and your overall experience of it.

Two donkeys, one with a rider, pass down a street in a rose-colored city of sandstone
Animal welfare concerns have been raised repeatedly about the treatment of camels, horses and donkeys at Petra © Frank Bach / Shutterstock

Reconsider whether you need a ride

The picture-perfect image of camels resting in front of the Treasury has driven countless travelers to meander down the Siq, the 1.2km-long (0.75-mile) narrow winding gorge at the site’s main entrance, in search of the iconic shot. However, some return on this route with a less-than-rosy outlook after seeing the treatment of the camels, horses and donkeys in Petra.

Collaboration between the local Bedouin and the Jordanian government has seen the plight of the working animals improve, but there is much work to be done. Although many owners care for their animals, incidents of mistreatment still happen, from child handlers delivering overzealous commands to the Street of Facades becoming something of a racetrack as the lumbering “Bedouin Ferraris” are hastily shuttled back and forth to cater to visitor demand.

Understand that the ancient city of Petra is a vast site – 264 sq km – so don’t try to cover the entire place in a single session, even if you’re only here for the day. Know your limit and pace yourself, especially if you’re planning to tackle the 850 delicate steps up to the Monastery, worn down and rutted by the increase in donkey traffic. If you decide to take a ride, seek out an adult provider (not a child) with animals that appear healthy and capable of carrying the weight of their prospective passenger. Pay the correct fare (as posted at the Petra Visitor Centre) and avoid bargaining down, which pressures the Bedouin animal-handlers to rush back and make up the lost income. Any incidents of abuse should be reported, ideally with photo or video evidence, to the tourist police at the visitor center.

Lone hiker standing on the rock in Petra, Jordan at sunset
Petra’s immaculate sculpted facades and stairs are made entirely of sandstone, a rock that easily sculpted by hand, water and hiking boots © alexeys / Getty Images

Tread lightly and don’t leave a mark

The ancient Nabataean civilization sculpted the immaculate facades of Petra from giant slabs of malleable sandstone, a rock that’s supremely easy to etch, whether by hand, rain or hiking boot. The Nabataeans understood Petra’s vulnerability to the weather and constructed a network of water-diverting aqueducts and cisterns to keep mother nature’s liquid chisels at bay.

What the Nabataeans didn’t plan for was millions of tourists descending on their capital, pounding the pavement with high-tech walking shoes designed to dig into the ground. On your visit, opt for shoes with a lighter tread and leave hiking poles with pointed ends behind. Unfortunately, you’re also likely to see other visitors, and sometimes even local Bedouin, climbing on monuments, etching their names and love notes into the rock facades and running their fingers along millennia-old masonry, especially in the Siq. Let Petra leave its mark on you instead of the other way around.

Local Bedouin operate shops in front of the Royal Tombs, Petra, Jordan
Countless shops line popular walkways of Petra, but be conscious about what’s best – and legal – to purchase on site © George Pachantouris / Getty Images

Shop ethically

The prosperous trade capital of the Nabataeans, Petra in some ways remains a bustling bazaar where vendors hawk their wares to the never-ending stream of passersby. Ad-hoc stalls line the Street of Facades from the Treasury, cascade down the ledges in front of the Royal Tombs and perch impossibly on the steps up to the Monastery.

As more travelers visit Petra, a global crossroads for goods since ancient times, the locals can and should benefit economically, but there are some things to look out for and avoid when you’re browsing.

  • Be wary of “authentic artefacts,” which have likely been looted from tombs and are illegal to buy and sell.
  • Avoid natural souvenirs such as colorful striped rocks and jars of sand, which literally take away from Petra’s landscape.
  • Some of the shops are run by children. Buying trinkets from them encourages their parents to keep them out of school to run the business.

Bring your own water and skip the plastic bottles

There’s no better Bedouin pastime than slowly sipping a piping hot cup of sugary black tea, and many of the restaurants and cafes in Petra offer the chance to stop and take a break on your strenuous journey. While we can’t say no to a steaming cuppa, we draw the line at purchasing plastic bottles of water, which must be carted in and only add to the mounting global plastic plague. Before you leave home, bring a large water bladder to keep you hydrated around the whole site.

Roman Soldier's tomb viewed from garden tomb at Petra, Jordan
On the other side of the mountain from Petra’s main valley lie hundreds of beautiful but little-visited tombs and temples © trabantos / Getty Images

Step away from Petra’s main street

Petra counts more than 800 registered sites, including some 500 tombs, on its list of places to see, and many of the best and most famous are along a well-trodden path. Although Petra would take days to explore fully, most visitors come for a day and stick to the site’s main street, which can cause congestion and overcrowding at Petra’s big-hitters. Diverting by just a few steps to the valleys beyond can change your entire experience: even popular and well-marked trails, such as Al Kubtha with an unbeatable eagle-eyed view of the Treasury, see just a fraction of the footfall.

One of Petra’s more challenging secrets is entering through the “back door” near the Monastery – part of the country-spanning 675km-long (420-mile) Jordan Trail – and you’ll almost certainly have the space all to yourself if you start early before even the most eager adventurers begin their climb from the Siq-end of the site. Another rewarding walk is a jaunt through Wadi Farasa to the High Place of Sacrifice, passing a number of lesser-visited but still just as impressive tombs, including the Roman-columned Garden Triclinium. It’s best to engage a local guide if you’re headed off the beaten track, as signage is poor.

A view of the Treasury from the Siq at Petra, Jordan
Many travelers spare just a day for Petra, but staying longer could have a more positive impact © Iwanami Photos / Shutterstock

Stay longer

Yes, the visitor numbers to Petra have been climbing faster than the steps up to the High Place of Sacrifice, but many travelers only pencil in enough time for a flying visit, putting pressure on water resources in local accommodation in this desert environment, which must be swapped out daily for new arrivals. You could also be making better use of your Jordan Pass – the Jordan Expert version includes three consecutive days at Petra. Linger longer to better preserve one of the world’s most incredible and endangered ancient sites: in both your own memories and for the travelers who visit next.

Lauren Keith traveled to Jordan with support from Intrepid. Lonely Planet contributors do not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.

Where to go in Slovakia for castle ruins, mountain hikes and city culture

Most travelers get a taste of Slovakia on a city break in the capital, Bratislava, or by hiking in the famous Tatras

Yet well beyond its numerous castles and cobbled old towns, the Central European country offers much more. Nowadays, many of Slovakia’s historic buildings are incubators for contemporary art and cuisine. And while the High Tatras are indeed (and should be) a prime draw, Slovakia’s other national parks abound with forests, meadows and alpine lakes, plus cycling and hiking trails galore. 

Many countries can boast such a range of attractions – but few have it all such a modestly sized, easy-to-travel package. Trains connect Slovakia to capitals across services Europe, bus services are abundant and driving yourself is easy. Won over yet?

Here’s our rundown of Slovakia’s best places to visit. 

UFO Tower at the Novy Most (New Bridge), Bratislava, Slovakia
The UFO atop Most SNP bridge is an icon of Bratislava’s weird and wonderful architecture © Walter Bibikow / Getty Images

1. Bratislava

Best for merrymaking and monumental architecture

It’s not hard to find thirsty tourists stumbling across Bratislava’s cobblestones in search of their next Lánius beer (or, more bravely, their next round of Slivovitz plum brandy). Yet while the Slovak capital has a well-earned reputation as a party town, even devoted revelers take in some culture along the way. 

Expect a showcase of architecture from across the centuries. Michael’s Tower, the city’s original gate, dates from the Middle Ages, as does the city’s crowning castle. The art-nouveau Blue Church is a gem of early-20th-century design, while at the Slovak National Gallery, art is exhibited in an award-winning gallery space. And all around, the brutish beauty of the socialist era is still present in oddities like the UFO (home to a rotating restaurant) and the defiantly upside-down Slovak Radio Building.

Bratislava is also an ideal base for day trips. Within 90 minutes by road you can storm Červený Kameň Castle, take a spa day in Piešťany, drink in the views from Devínska Kobyla Observation Tower or climb Trenčín’s clock tower for a bird’s-eye view. 

Planning tip: Summer festivals help you see the city at its regal best. Plan around Middle Ages in the Park in June or the later summer Coronation Days. 

Hikers on a trail in the High Tatras, Slovakia
Hiking the High Tatras never disappoints © tramper79 / Shutterstock

2. The High Tatras

Best for mountain thrills

With peaks that reach as high as 2655m (8710ft), northern Slovakia’s mountains have acquired near-mythic status. These fearsome mountains and valleys were carved by glaciers during the Ice Age; today the High Tatras, particularly the crooked peak of Kriváň (2495m / 8285ft), are symbols of national pride. Mixed-ability groups head straight for idyllic strolls at glacial Popradské Pleso lake, while tougher day-long treks like the Furkotská Valley Loop and the Kôprovsky Śtit Ascent appeal to hardier hikers. It’s easy to travel green, too: the Tatra Electric Railway travels between Štrbské Pleso (a lakeside resort town with lovely walking trails) right up to the lofty mountain resort Tatranská Lomnica.

Skiers also have plenty of reasons to head to the High Tatras. Jasná Nízke Tatry is the biggest ski area with more than 46km (29 miles) of trails, while the highest resort, Tatranská Lomnica, tops out at 2190m (7185ft). 

Planning tip: The highest hikes don’t open until mid-June, so go in midsummer if you’re scaling lofty peaks like Kriváň or Rysy (2501m / 8205ft). Otherwise, September’s mellow sunshine is ideal for hitting the trails. 

A shop in the Zajtrajsie Noviny Building on Hrnčiarska, Old Town of Košice, Slovakia
Hrnčiarska in Košice’s Old Town is packed with galleries and cafes © Oscity / Shutterstock

3. Košice

Best for modern art and medieval finery 

Second cities have an appealing vibe: all the size and sophistication of a capital, only with fewer tourists and a scrappy attitude. This describes Košice through and through. For those who like their beauty with a bit of an edge, it’s irresistible. The forbiddingly Gothic St Elizabeth’s Cathedral anchors a plaza graced by a plague column, grand town hall and 14th-century chapel. These layers of history are best peeled back along art studio– and cafe-lined Hrnčiarska, long the abode of the city’s artisans. Meanwhile, Tabačka Kulturfabrik has transformed into a coworking space–performance space–anything-goes bar-slash-venue. It’s creative, messy – and quintessentially Košice. 

Planning tip: There are no fewer than 18 UNESCO World Heritage sights within a couple of hours by road from Košice, with the most enchanting along the Wooden Churches Trail. Hire a driver or rent a car to do a loop taking in Ladomirová, Hervatov and Kežmarok; summoning a church custodian to unlock these art-filled churches is part of the fun. 

A woman on a ladder by a waterfall at Slovensky Raj National Park, Slovakia
With its walkways and ladders, Slovenský Raj is more like an adventure playground than national park © zedspider / Shutterstock

4. Slovenský Raj National Park

Best for waterfalls and rivers

Of the nine national parks within Slovakia’s borders, this might just be our favorite. “Slovak Paradise” is more akin to an adventure playground than a wilderness. Streams wind through this landscape of forests and karst cliffs, forcing visitors to climb ladders and balance along wooden walkways to navigate trails like the ever-popular Suchá Belá Gorge and Kláštorská Gorge, with its three waterfalls. 

Cycling is a delightful way to explore, too: there are 65km (40 miles) of bike trails within the park, and more in the surrounding countryside. (Rent wheels in the gateway town of Spišská Nová Ves or in Podlesok, within the park.) Though winter is much quieter, you can cross-country ski on marked walking trails, or head to the small ski area at Mlynky.

Planning tip: A worthwhile detour just outside the park is Dobšinská Ice Cave, which is open to tours of its frosty stalagmites between mid-May and late August. 

Aerial view of the historic mining town of Banská Štiavnica, Slovakia
Nestled in the mountains, Banská Štiavnica is a beautifully preserved gem of a town © Hike The World / Shutterstock

5. Banská Štiavnica

Best for culture, both above and below ground

Is Banská Štiavnica the prettiest town in Central Europe? We think it’s a strong contender: Gothic and Renaissance churches and houses make it a veritable jewel box of architecture, and it’s huddled inside an extinct volcanic caldera. 

This medieval settlement in the midst of the Štiavnica Mountains garnered a UNESCO World Heritage listing not for its beauty but its remarkable engineering history: it’s Slovakia’s oldest gold- and silver-mining town. Strolling around the historic village – from elegant Trinity Square to the not-so-new New Castle (16th century) – is more than eye candy: it’s a glimpse into an industry that transformed the whole region. The Slovak Mining Museum takes you deep down into the heart of the town’s mining past. Up above, Kalvária, a unique complex of Baroque churches and chapels, overlooks Banská Štiavnica from a hilltop east of town. 

Traditional folk architecture in the village of Ždiar, Belianske Tatras, Slovakia
Traditionally designed buildings grace the mountain village of Ždiar © PeterVrabel / Shutterstock

6. Ždiar

Best for authentic mountain culture

The village of Ždiar’s setting is simply lovely: in the Belianske Tatras, right by the border with Poland, surrounded by glorious hiking and biking trails, as well as caves you can visit nearby. What makes it even more special is the distinct flavor of Goral culture in everything from its food to its ornately painted houses. 

Goral people have lived in northern Slovakia and southern Poland ever since the 14th century, when Wallachian shepherds migrated north to these rugged lands. Today, Goral identity remains an unmistakable feature of the town, noticeable in Ždiar’s log houses, which are traditionally decorated with geometric patterns in blue and red paint. The old ways are carefully preserved in the Ždiarsky Dom folk museum – and served up at the adjoining traditional restaurant. Expect sheep’s cheese galore.

7. Tokaj Region

Best for idyllic wine country

Hungary has hogged the acclaim for sweet white Tokaj wine, a so-called “liquid gold” once served to royals and still gracing the dessert menus of many fine-dining restaurants. Yet much of the Tokaj wine region, formerly entirely within the Kingdom of Hungary, landed within the borders of modern-day Slovakia at the end of the First World War. 

Today, southeastern Slovakia boasts more than a dozen wineries. Hand-dug underground cellars provide deliciously rustic settings to sample Tokaj wine, usually with cheeses and cold meats to cleanse your palate in between each sweet sip. The Jaroslav Ostrožovič and Tokaj Macik wineres, both long-standing and family-run, offer the full experience. Reserve tastings ahead. 

Planning tip: Wine villages like Veľká Tŕňa are only an hour by road from Košice – but it’s much more sensible (not to mention enjoyable) to stay overnight. Many wineries have on-site rooms; another appealing option is a stay in a tree house at Camping Malá Bara.

A wide view of Spiš Castle, Slovakia
Among the countless castles in Slovakia, Spiš might be the most evocative © phbcz / Getty Images

8. Spišské Podhradie 

Best castle and hilltop views 

In a country with more than 120 castles to visit, choosing a favorite is tough. But if we had to hide from a trebuchet attack anywhere in Slovakia, we’d pick Spiš. Standing imperiously on a 634m(2080ft)-high hilltop, Spiš Castle has withstood centuries of battles thanks to its stocky towers and defensive walls. It’s one of Central Europe’s biggest strongholds. And thanks to a Gothic makeover of its palace, it’s as attractive as it is imposing. On clear days, you can see all the way to the Tatras. 

Spišské Podhradie is no one-trick town: just west lies the Spišská Kapitula, whose architecture – a mix of Romanesque turrets and splashy Baroque finery – has earned it the nickname “Slovakia’s Vatican.” The village has a small but excellent array of guesthouses and restaurants, too; we recommend the farmhouse fare at merry Spišsky Salaš.

Planning tip: Just 12km (7.5 miles) west is the town of Levoča, with a fine town hall and a small cluster of art and medieval museums. The highlight is the dreamy view of Levoča’s church spires and defensive walls from the hilltop Basilica of the Virgin Mary – a view guaranteed to inspire dreams of your next trip.

A ski guide to Valais: finding your slope in southern Switzerland

Switzerland might appear small on paper, but it’s a hell of a lot bigger when you look up. Welcome to one of Europe’s most mountainous countries, where the Alps ripple across 60% of its territory. With a whole lot of vertical, it’s all about peak performance here – the Swiss are practically born on skis and four-year-olds will often whizz rings around you on the slopes. And the rush is never greater than where the glacier-capped Alps are at their highest: Valais, a canton tucked away in the south of Switzerland and straddling the Italian border.

When the first flakes fall in winter, the land of mighty Matterhorn and the 4634m Dufourspitze, Switzerland’s highest peak, has skiers itching to hurtle down the pistes or make fresh tracks in the backcountry. And whether you’re a black-run thrill seeker, a lover of cruisy blues with big views, or an absolute beginner, there’s a run with your name on it. Read on for our seven absolute faves.

People are on chair lifts leaving a lift station, which has the Matterhorn in the background, in Zermatt, Switzerland.
Your first view of the Matterhorn is bound to stay with you as you take to the pistes around Zermatt. Comezora/Getty Images

Zermatt

Best for riveting Matterhorn views and skiing into Italy

Let’s begin with the big one… You never forget the first time you clap eyes on 4478m Matterhorn: that perfect pyramid-shaped peak that says Switzerland (and Toblerone) like no other. Most likely it will be a fleeting glimpse from the little red train that chugs from Visp to Zermatt. Once you arrive, there are distractingly lovely vistas from the slopes, which are the country’s highest, topped off by the 3883m Matterhorn Glacier Paradise cable car station, where you can swoon over views of 14 glaciers and 38 mountain peaks over 4000m.

Car-free Zermatt makes a terrific base for hitting the pistes, which amount to 360km when coupled with over-the-mountain Cervinia in Italy (much easier to reach since the 2023 launch of the Matterhorn Alpine Crossing). The cruisy slopes around Rothorn, Stockhorn and Klein Matterhorn suit confident intermediates, while plenty of great off-piste areas will please powder hounds (though getting a guide is wise). Likewise, there is fine skiing for beginners and families at Wolli Park Sunnegga, and a snowpark with rails, boxes, jumps and kickers for boarders. A bonus for families is that kids under nine ski free.

Planning tip: One of the world’s most scenic train rides, the Glacier Express makes the 290km, eight-hour journey between Zermatt and St Moritz twice daily from mid-December to early May.

Arolla

Best for quiet, uncrowded slopes and heavenly off-piste

Huddled away in the deeply traditional Val d’Hérens, and with pop-up views of glacier-encrusted 4000m peaks, the sleepy hamlet of Arolla has a backdrop out of all proportion with its size (population 200). Sitting at a giddy 1998m, the endearingly Alpine village has an impeccable snow record, ravishing scenery and 47km of downhill slopes to whoosh down – mostly blues and reds geared toward beginners and intermediates respectively. By Swiss standards, it’s reasonably inexpensive, too.

Given its remoteness, there’s fine off-piste terrain for ski touring (best tackled with a guide who knows the slopes inside out). The village forms a leg of the famous high-level, week-long Haute Route from Zermatt to Chamonix, which threads through the Mont Blanc massif. One of Europe’s toughest and most memorable skis, it’s suitable for expert ski tourers only.

Planning tip: It’s not just about the downhill; there are 42km of cross-country ski tracks where you can glide to a glacier in quiet exhilaration, not to mention an extensive network of snowshoe trails, including the 5km stomp from La Gouille to shimmering, forest-ringed Lac Bleu.

A skier flies through the air on the ski slopes above Verbier in the Swiss Alps. The mountains are blanketed in fresh snow and the sun is setting behind the mountains.
Experience peak adrenaline by day and legendary après-ski by night in Verbier. cdbrphotography/Getty Images

Verbier

Best for challenging slopes and celeb spotting

Cradled in a south-facing bowl, glamorous, celebrity-magnet Verbier is the Swiss king of cool, with seriously hard-core skiing spread over elevations of 1500m (the village) to 3330m (Mont Fort). Its pulse-quickening black runs, glorious off-piste, narrow couloirs and mogul-spotted itinerary routes challenge even super-adventurous skiers – the toughest being the mythical freeride Tortin. Freeriders and boarders are in their element at the 2250m-high La Chaux snowpark. Right at the heart of Les 4 Vallées ski area, with soul-stirring views of the Mont Blanc and Combins massifs, the resort has a fabulous snow record and access to more than 400km of marked pistes, many of which target bold intermediates.

The skiers that flock here – royals, James Blunt (who has a lift named after him), Richard Branson (owner of ultra-luxe mountain hideaway The Lodge), the Beckhams, Leonardo DiCaprio and Ed Sheeran included – party just as hard as they pound the powder. The champagne-fuelled après-ski scene here is legendary.

Planning tip: If you want to find fresh powder in the backcountry, check out Les Guides de Verbier. Besides off-piste guiding, they also offer ski touring, ice climbing and snowshoeing.

Crans-Montana

Best for sun and sparkle

On a high plateau above the Rhône Valley is the ritzy ski resort of Crans-Montana, where 160km of largely south-facing slopes, linked by ultra-modern cable cars, are perfect for confident beginners and cruisy intermediates, especially around the Cry d’Er section. And the 360-degree views are phenomenal, taking in white giants like the Matterhorn and Mont Blanc.

There are a few black runs in the mix, including the breathtakingly steep World Cup Piste Nationale, one of the longest downhill runs in the Alps. But that’s just the tip of the iceberg: you’ll also find ski mountaineering trails, a snowpark with a superpipe for boarders and freestylers, Plaine Morte glacier for ski-high cross-country skiing, and a happening après-ski scene. The latter cranks up a notch during the end-of-the-winter-season Caprices music festival, which brings big-name acts to the slopes.

Planning tip: One of the hippest mountain hangouts in the Swiss Alps at 2112m, Chetzeron has gasp-eliciting views from its terrace, where you can snag a hammock or sheepskin-clad deckchair to sip chocolat chaud (hot chocolate) post-ski. Reach it by ski or snowboard from the top of Cry d’Er cable car.

A large, traditional wooden villa with turrets on the edge of a slope dotted with pine trees in Bettmeralp-Aletsch in the Swiss Alps
Family-friendly Bettmeralp-Aletsch is a picture-postcard delight. Phillip Richter/Shutterstock

Bettmeralp-Aletsch

Best for serene slopes and glacier gazing

Imagine the Swiss Alpine village of your dreams, times it by 10 and you’ll probably conjure up something like Bettmeralp: snowbound, mountain-rimmed, sprinkled with dark-timber chalets and perched high above the Upper Rhône Valley at 1970m. In winter it’s pure Christmas-card stuff. And with just 452 permanent residents, this family-friendly hamlet naturally has a far more chilled vibe than the bigger resorts.

On the often sunny, car-free plateau, there are 104km of pistes forming the Aletsch Arena to play on. At the heart of the Unesco World Heritage Swiss Alps Jungfrau-Aletsch region, these are largely geared toward intermediates, snowboarders and off-piste thrill-seekers, but there is also ample terrain for beginners and experts.

Planning tip: Skiing doesn’t get more ludicrously lovely than on the run from the 2627m Bettmerhorn cable car top station, shadowing the 23km Aletsch Glacier, the longest glacier in the European Alps.

Champéry

Vast slopes and skiing to France

Nudging France in the northwest of Valais, Champéry forms part of Les Portes du Soleil (“Gates of the Sun”) ski area, comprising a whopping 600km of pistes spread across two countries and 12 resorts, making it one of the biggest in the world. A single pass covers the lot.

Dwarfed by the jagged, multi-summited Dents du Midi, Champéry’s wide slopes and long valley runs are well suited to intermediates (beginners will find them a little tough). Boarders head across to Avoriaz and Les Crosets for terrain parks. Black runs and some substantial off-piste ramp up the challenge for experts.

Planning tip: La Chavanette, otherwise known as the “Swiss Wall,” is a real thigh-burner of a ski – with a 37° slope and 76% gradient, it’s so breathtakingly sheer it’s like leaping into the void, and there are so many moguls that there is no respite from bumps along its entire length. It’s classed as an itinéraire (avalanche controlled but not patrolled).

Allalin lift station and revolving restaurant in Saas Fee. The a circular building stands on top of a mountain with views across the Swiss Alps
From Saas Fee you can dine out with a difference, at the world’s highest revolving restaurant. LucynaKoch/Getty Images

Saas Fee

Best for freeriders and boarders

Hemmed in by an amphitheatre of 13 implacable peaks above 4000m, glacier-licked Saas Fee sits at the foot of the 4546m Dom – the second-highest mountain in Switzerland and the third-highest in the Alps. As you might expect, the scenery is out of this world. And with skiing between elevations of 1800m and 3550m, there’s always fantastic powder to find.

A happening resort today, Saas Fee was an isolated outpost only reachable by mule trail until 1951. Now the car-free resort is an architectural mix of traditional dark-wood granaries sidling up to modern chalets. The skiing on 145km of runs is overall fairly gentle: great for beginners and easy-going intermediates, though the 1700m top-to-bottom descent of the mountain ups the challenge. Experts can tackle the Weisse Perle black run and hook onto guided ski tours, while boarders find big air thrills at Morenia snowpark.

Planning tip: If you fancy a post-ski snack with a view, hop on the underground funicular to 3500m Allalin, home to the world’s highest revolving restaurant.

Make it happen

Geneva Airport (GVA) is the gateway to the Valais region, with fast, frequent and scenic SBB rail connections to all the major ski resorts. Taking the train, in fact, is often preferable to driving, as many resorts are car-free. Buses and cable cars fill in the gaps.

The ski season runs roughly from December to April. For better deals and more availability, avoid peak season (Christmas and Easter). You can often beat the queues and save money by purchasing ski passes and organising ski hire online with Intersport. For group tuition, check out Swiss Ski Schools.

The best beaches in the Philippines

How do you even begin to choose the best beach in the Philippines? With 7641 islands to choose from, you could throw a dart at a map and be confident of finding sandy shores and turquoise waters.

For decades, the Philippines has drawn travelers eager to trade skyscrapers for towering coconut trees. Sunseekers flock to islands such as Boracay, Bohol, Cebu and Coron, finding gleaming white beaches and vibrant dive sites just a short flight from Manila.

Reaching some of the best beaches involves inter-island flights, overland journeys and multiple sea crossings, but this is part of the charm of travel in the Philippines. Those willing to step off the beaten track will find blissfully uncrowded shores, year-round warm weather and an even warmer welcome from locals.

Whether it’s your first time in the Philippines or your fifteenth, here’s our pick of the best islands for beach lovers.

A kayaker approaches a hidden beach at El Nido, Philippines
Idyllic beaches are only a paddle away at El Nido on the island of Palawan. John Seaton Callahan/Getty Images

1. Palawan

Best beaches for adventurers

You can’t go wrong with big-hitter Palawan, with attractions neatly packaged into organized tours. Kayak into secret coves to find empty beaches bordered by rugged limestone cliffs at El Nido, then dive into the glassy waters of Kayangan Lake or snorkel over shipwrecks in Coron.

Gorgeous beaches abound. On the mainland, try Nacpan Beach, a 4km (2.5-mile) crescent-shaped strip of creamy golden sand framed by azure waters. On the northwest coast, San Vicente shelters the country’s longest white sand beach; you could clock up almost 20,000 steps strolling the entire 14km (9-mile) stretch of Long Beach, but you may be content to simply doze off in a hammock instead.

Detour: For the freedom to make up your itinerary on the fly, rent a motorcycle in Puerto Princesa for the trip to El Nido and back. Break the journey at Port Barton, where boat tours offer the chance to snorkel and swim with sea turtles. Head southwest from Puerto Princesa to reach Balabac at Palawan’s southernmost tip, where the pristine sands of Onok Island call out to thrillseekers with time and money to burn.

A group of people play volleyball as the sun sets at White beach, Boracay Island.
Many visitors to Boracay never stray further than the beach. Aleksandar Todorovic / Shutterstock

2. Boracay

Best for a group getaway

Backed by palm trees for 4km (2.5 miles), White Beach has long been one of Boracay’s top tourist draws. Air-conditioned hotel rooms, fast food joints and bars are just steps away from the sandy shore. Expect a flurry of activities, from dive trips to paddling on transparent kayaks, or sip on an icy-cold fruit shake or indulge in a soothing massage without straying from the sand. As the sinking sun blazes orange, pop into the Hue Hotel for a poolside cocktail or Los Indios Bravos for a craft beer, or board a paraw (outrigger boat) for a cruise; the sunsets are spectacular when viewed from the water.

Detour: To stretch your sea legs, rent a mountain bike and pedal to Mount Luho, the island’s highest point. Boracay is just 7km (4.3 miles) long, so you can loop the island in under three hours, passing rustic beaches such as Puka Beach and Bulabog Beach.

A view of White Beach at Moalboal on Cebu Island
White sands are the prelude to spectacular diving and snorkeling at Moalboal on Cebu Island. photosounds/Shutterstock

3. Cebu

Best for underwater enthusiasts

Easily accessible by air and sea, the island of Cebu offers a bustle of beaches, accommodations, activities and excellent dining. Sun worshippers make a beeline for the white sand beaches of Bantayan Island, Malapascua Island and Mactan Island, while colorful coral reefs teeming with sea turtles and other marine life add extra appeal for snorkelers and divers. For something out of the ordinary, head to Moalboal or Pescador Island, where spectacular sardine runs can be seen close to the surface year-round.

An outrigger boat at sunset on Bohol Island, Philippines
Romantic views over lilting waters are part of Bohol’s timeless appeal. Julien Pons/500px

4. Bohol

Best for together time

Bohol is another effortless choice, with abundant lodging options and lots of fun activities to plug into your itinerary. Family-friendly resorts line lovely Alona Beach on Panglao Island, and there’s more picturesque white sand nearby on Dumaluan Beach. Bangka boats wait to whisk tourists offshore – on the islands of Pamilacan and Balicasag, you can bask on beautiful beaches and enjoy a spot of dolphin spotting and snorkeling on the side. 

Anda on Bohol’s eastern edge offers a quieter getaway, with 3km (1.9 miles) of dazzling sand for undisturbed idling; the Amun Ini Beach Resort & Spa is a secluded spot for couples to cocoon.

Detour: For a change of scenery, head inland to visit Bohol’s Chocolate Hills and tarsier sanctuaries – always a hit with kids – then grab some fruity ice cream on the coast at Bohol Bee Farm.

Surfers walk along a boardwalk on Siargao Island, The Philippines
There’s always time to surf on the idyllic beaches of Siargao. John Seaton Callahan/Getty Images

5. Siargao

Best for surfers

Home to the world-famous Cloud 9 break, Siargao Island draws surfers across the globe. The vibe is lively yet laid-back, and beginners can take surf lessons near the town of General Luna, where hip cafes, social hubs and budget hostels are clustered. Some shops rent out customized motorbikes with racks so surfers can ferry their boards to secret breaks along the coconut-tree-lined coast, including postcard-perfect Pacifico Beach.

Boat tours to islets, rocky tidal pools and the spectacular Sugba Lagoon are easy to book online. Beyond the surf, digital nomads and sociable solo travelers are drawn to Siargao by the allure of slow island living and many end up staying longer than expected.

Detour: The dreamy beaches of the Dinagat Islands are accessible via a new sea route launched in April 2024. This underrated destination is rarely visited even by locals; get here from the village of Del Carmen on Siargao’s west coast.

6. Romblon

Best for intrepid explorers

If you prefer the sound of waves breaking on the shore to the buzz of conversation, you’ll love Romblon. Hours will stretch into days as you wander from one beach to another on this easygoing island. A short tricycle ride from Romblon’s main town is Bonbon Beach, a low-key spot with soft sand and calm waters. When the tide is low, you can walk along the sandbar to a nearby islet or watch youngsters frolic in the waves. Romblon’s coast is studded with immaculate islets, with water so clear you’d think it was AI-generated.

Detour: You’ll find more fine beaches on the neighboring islands of Tablas and Sibuyan. Test your castaway potential by taking a trip to Cresta de Gallo, a snaking sandbar off the coast of Sibuyan where you can enjoy sweet solitude surrounded by sparkling seas. Return to Sibuyan to hike up the jagged slopes of Mount Guiting Guiting, one of the country’s toughest climbs.

A view of a sandy beach through a rock arch on Sabtang Island, Philippines
Morong Beach’s rock arch is a Sabtang landmark. Joseph Christopher Oropel/Getty Images

7. Batanes Islands

Best for photographers

The islands of Batan, Sabtang and Itbayat in Batanes province in the far north of the Philippines hide some incredible stretches of coastline, though you may spend more time snapping photos than swimming on these remote islands. Despite the compact size of each island, exploration takes longer and memory cards fill up faster with so much striking scenery to record. 

The landscape of the Batanes islands is defined by rolling hills topped by lighthouses and rugged beaches covered with volcanic rocks. Leap over the boulders at Valugan Boulder Beach on Batan for dramatic shots, then head over to White Beach, south of Mahatao, for a safe dip on a pebble-sprinkled strip of sand.

Heading on from Batan, board a wooden faluwa boat at Basco for the bumpy crossing to Sabtang Island. After snapping shots of the island’s iconic stone houses, head to Morong Beach, dominated by a natural rock arch. This scenic seaside stop is ideal for swimming and the best place on the island to enjoy local specialties such as turmeric rice, uvud (banana heart meatballs) and dibang (flying fish).

8. Santa Cruz Island

Best for an eco-escape

Santa Cruz Island, just off the coast of Zamboanga on Mindanao, has one of the few beaches in the world with pink sand. Stroll along the shoreline and you’ll immediately notice its blushing hue – caused by crushed red organ pipe coral mingling with grains of white sand.

It’s a rewarding escape for environmentally-conscious travelers; yellow-painted fishing boats offer trips into thick mangrove forests, where you can gather edible seagrapes and spot stingless jellyfish. At the center of the island lies a calm and shallow lagoon dotted with vintas – traditional Zamboango fishing vessels with rainbow-striped sails. It’s a picturesque spot for paddling.

Detour: Northeast along the coast from Zamboanga City are the Onse Islas, a cluster of eleven small islands with fine sandy beaches. Swimming, kayaking and nature treks are the main draws in these community-managed islands, which remain blissfully free of commercial development.